Cultivating Vegetables
in your Garden
Understanding the general practice of
cultivation:
As far as weeds are concerned any gardener of
experience will not need to be told of the importance of
keeping his crops clean.
Having learned from bitter experience the price of
letting weeds get a start we know that one or two days of
growth followed perhaps by a day or so of rain, may easily double
or treble the work of cleaning a patch of onions or carrots and
that where weeds have attained any size they cannot be taken out of
sowed crops without doing a great deal of injury.
We also know that every day's growth means just so much
available plant food stolen from under the very roots of his crops.
Instead of letting the weeds steal any food meant for the
plant we should remove them, because clean and frequent
cultivation not only breaks the soil up mechanically but lets in
air, moisture and heat all of which are essential in effecting the
chemical balance necessary to convert non- available into available
plant food.
We all know the necessity of keeping the soil loosened
about our growing crops. Plants need to breathe. Their
roots need air. You might as well expect to find the rosy glow of
happiness on the wan cheeks of a cotton-mill child slave as to
expect to see the luxuriant dark green of healthy plant life in a
suffocated garden.
Obviously air and water
are vital. You may not see at first what the matter of
frequent cultivation has to do with water. But let us stop a
moment and look into it. Take a strip of blotting paper, dip
one end in water, and watch the moisture run up hill, soak up
through the blotter. The scientists have labeled that
"capillary action" the water crawls up little invisible tubes
formed by the texture of the blotter. Now take a similar
piece, cut it across, hold the two cut edges firmly together,
and try it again.
The moisture refuses to cross the line: the connection has been
severed. In the same way the water stored in the soil after a rain
begins at once to escape again into the atmosphere. That on the
surface evaporates first, and that which has soaked in begins to
soak in through the soil to the surface. It is leaving your garden,
through the millions of soil tubes, just as surely as if you had a
two-inch pipe and a gasoline engine, pumping it into the gutter
night and day! Save your garden by stopping the waste.
It is the easiest thing in the world to do cut the pipe in two. By
frequent cultivation of the surface soil not more than one or two
inches deep for most small vegetables the soil tubes are kept
broken, and a mulch of dust is maintained. Try to get over every
part of your garden, especially where it's not shaded, once in
every ten days or two weeks.
You can push your wheel hoe through, and keep the dust mulch as a
constant protection, as fast as you can walk. If you wait for the
weeds, you will nearly have to crawl through, doing more harm by
disturbing your growing plants, losing all the plant food which
they have consumed, and actually putting in more hours of work.
There are many good books which show good tools detailed at this
resource:
What's the best methods. Get a wheel hoe. The simplest sorts will
not only save you an infinite amount of time and work but they do
the work better. You can grow good vegetables, especially if your
garden is a very small one, without one of these labour-savers, and
you won't regret the small investment in buying it. With a wheel
hoe, the work of preserving the soil mulch becomes very simple.
Keeping weeds cleaned out of the rows and between the plants in the
rows is so much easier if you tackle the job frequently. Do it
while the ground is soft. Soon as the soil begins to dry out
after a rain is the best time. Under such conditions the weeds will
pull out by the roots, without breaking off. The skilful use of the
wheel hoe can be acquired through practice only.
The first thing to learn is to only watch the wheels, the blades,
disc or rakes will take care of themselves. The operation of
"hilling" consists in drawing up the soil about the stems of
growing plants, usually at the time of second or third hoeing.
It used to be the practice to hill everything that could be hilled
"up to the eyebrows," but it has gradually been discarded for what
is termed "level culture"; and you will readily see the reason,
from what has been said about the escape of moisture from the
surface of the soil; for of course the two upper sides of the hill,
which may be represented by an equilateral triangle with one side
horizontal, give more exposed surface than the level surface
represented by the base. In wet soils or seasons hilling may be
advisable, but very seldom otherwise.
Crop rotation:
There is another thing to be considered in making each vegetable do
its best and that's crop rotation, or the following of any
vegetable with a different sort at the next planting. With some
vegetables, such as cabbage, this is almost imperative, and
practically all are helped by it. Even onions, which are popularly
supposed to be the the exception to the rule, are healthier and do
as well after a different crop provided the soil is as
finely pulverized and rich as a previous crop of onions would leave
it.
Editor
Peter Charalambos
 Author: Peter
Charalambos
Granted Expert Author
Status
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